Paso Robles

PASO ROBLES, CA

A few days in the fledgling wine country of Paso Robles, made us feel stripped of the frivolity of LA, like we could easily wear cowboy boots daily and live the simple life of the fields—or the vines, rather. Acting as stars of our own BMW commercial, we carefully wound through the hills of Paso on tiny roads overhung with trees dripping with Spanish Moss between wine tastings. As many of the wineries are quite “young” by snooty wine standards, it is not uncommon to have the winemaker themselves on the tasting room floor pouring their finest. Some of these young vinters are quite rugged and handsome—your Marlboro Man fantasy come to life- which makes the science of wine no longer gibbrish, but actually quite engaging! Paso is an endearing town in that it still feels small and simple, surprised by its new status as a “Destination.”

WHAT TO PACK

Paso can be really hot during summer and fall days and chilly in the evenings. Keep it casual and western as you will look out of place overdressed. No need to advertise being a city slicker…
Jeans
Boots—preferably cowboy, and other flat shoes for walking the vines
Sundresses for summer days
Sweater or jacket for evening

EAT

BREAKFAST

Good Times
1104 Pine Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
805-238-3288

Good Times is a call back to the era of Elvis and Betty Boop with its booths, jukebox, colored glass Coca Cola lampshades and framed photographs of moviestars who are long gone. The egg and cheese sandwich here: fried eggs, melted American and Swiss cheese, Canadian bacon and sourdough that has been kissed with butter and garlic, is incredible. Good Times is an excellent choice for a greasy hangover cure or the right place to prepare your body for wine tasting by filling up with a burger.

DINNER

Artisan
1401 Park Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
805-237-8084
www.artisanpasorobles.com
(Lunch and Dinner seven days a week 11am-10pm)

Artisan is the hippest place to dine in Paso. Our cousin Andrew brought us here with a group of friends our first night in town. We met the Kobayashi brothers, who run the place pretty seamlessly. Our favorites on the menu were the Ale Battered Gulf Shrimp; the King salmon with pancetta, ricotta dumplings and yellow tomatoes; the natural Angus Beef burger and the Banana Cream Pie for dessert which we guiltlessly enjoyed knowing the vegetables were hand picked, the meat antibiotic and hormone free, and fish wild-caught flown in daily. The sleek interior which is done in neutral colors with leather banquettes, framed photographs and dramatic minimalist lampshade chandeliers feels like a little bit of city sophistication in the old West. Artisan has an extensive wine list that features favorite wines from local wineries.

Bistro Laurent
1202 Pine Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
805-226-8191

Chef Laurent prepared the most decadent dinner for us – we blew it out with the Tasting Menu paired with wines. You can also choose a bottle of wine and have Laurent prepare a meal completely around it. The salad of Belgian endives with Blue crab, fresh pasta with wild mushrooms and truffle butter, and pepper crusted filet was the perfect mouth watering triumverate. The Bistro’s setting is cozy with exposed brick walls, banquettes and pots of herbs on tables instead of flowers or candles. They could however up the ambience a whole notch if they just dimmed the lights. The service is attentive and efficient and everyone clearly takes the business of food and wine very seriously. You will not break the bank having a five star, five course dinner with wine here, it is surprisingly affordable.

DRINK

Villa Creek Cafe
1144 Pine St
Paso Robles, CA 93446
(805) 238-3000
(Dinner 5-pm-10pm, Bar 4pm-til closing!)

The “It” spot in town where the hip young locals go for after work drinks and apps, or a nightcap. This is the most sophisticated hang out in town where you can spend a few hours enjoying wines from an extensive wine list that features international and local varietals. The bar menu is one of the most impressive we’ve seen—grilled fish tacos, sautéed shrimp in a spicy garlic red wine broth and house made sausages. We like the Mission style, open air, candlelit setting.

The Crooked Kilt
1122 Pine Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
(805) 238-7070
(Daily 11am-1am)

A no nonsense Irish/Scottish pub where getting picked up is highly likely. We rolled in late with a big group Friday night – the dance floor was sweaty, the crowd rowdy. Safe to say you will enjoy this place more if you’ve already had a few!

Pine Hall Saloon
1234 Pine Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
(805) 238-1114

Housed in one of Paso Robles’s oldest buildings (the Saloon was built before 1887 as a hotel and later served as a brothel), the weathered looking crowd wearing their best pressed Wranglers, really gets into the Karaoke and traditional country dancing. While you feel a bit like an outsider, the clientele is friendly. For you hustlers, they also have pool tables.

STAY

Hotel Cheval
1021 Pine Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
866-522-6999
www.hotelcheval.com
(16 rooms)
complimentary breakfast, bar

We arrived at the Hotel Cheval bleary eyed and starving after the drive from LA so were thrilled to be met with gooey cookies in our room that had been left at turndown. We were late to dinner which we were happy we could walk to—the center of town, picture the town square from “Back to the Future,” is only a block from the Cheval. Although there are other accommodation choices in town, we stress that Hotel Cheval is the only stylish boutique hotel located in downtown Paso. It captures rural charm and European sophistication. Our two favorite rooms are Kingston and Whistlejacket, although we stayed in Edesleigh, which is one of the more modest rooms at the hotel– we found it cozy and up to snuff.

Room at Hotel Chevel
Orchard Hill Farm
5415 Vineyard Drive
Paso Robles, CA 92446
805-239-9680
www.orchardhillbb.com
(3 rooms)
complimentary breakfast and bottle of wine

The term B & B can conjure up frightening scenes of doily covered sofas, explosions of Laura Ashley floral patterns and painful “gourmet” breakfasts shared with total strangers while making small talk. Orchard Hill is a refreshing and relieving departure from these haunting B & B images. The setting is truly breathtaking—the rolling hills of vines serve as the peaceful backdrop. The Carriage House (separate from the Main House) is a good choice if traveling as two couples as it has two bedrooms with their own baths and balconies, with a shared kitchen, living room and awesome larger deck, perfect for sundowners. Staying here is a restorative, “scrub your soul clean of city smut” experience. What makes Orchard Hill such a pure wine country choice for lodging is it’s setting- ten minutes from downtown Paso, so if driving/transportation is an issue, you might want to plan ahead or stay in town.

Room at Orchard Hill

TASTE

Calcareous Vineyard
3430 Peachy Canyon Road
Paso Robles, CA 93446
805-239-0289
(Thursday-Monday 11am-5pm; Tuesday and Wednesday by appointment)

We met the effusive and knowledgeable tasting room manager of Calcareous, Bob Duffy, when out to dinner one night in Paso. He promised amazing views from the hilltop vineyard. We went in search of the view the next day and were met with panoramic vistas and a full fledged interactive winemaking tutorial sealed with a solo by Salty, the singing dog. We love this vineyard—the view, the wine (Twisted Sister, in particular), Bob, but we also love it because of it’s history and the fact that is run by two sisters!

Firestone Vineyard
2300 Airport Road
Paso Robles, CA 93446
(805) 591-8050
(daily 10am-5pm)

While we are clearly biased as this winery bears and until recently was owned and run by family, this winery is a fun one to visit. Firestone offers comprehensive wine tours as well.

Four Vines
3750 Highway 46 West
Templeton, CA 93465
805-237-0055
(daily 11am-5pm in winter; daily 11am-6pm in summer)

This is a tiny tasting room in an unremarkable location, but it is always packed! The irreverent names the winemakers give their varietals (Naked, Biker, The Sophisticate, Peasant- see above label) draw a young crowd who are more interested in chugging than tasting. Pop culture wines, some of them highly rated by Wine Spectator. Ask for our friend Diane Duffy who sometimes works the tasting room floor.

Minassian Young Vineyard
4045 Peachy Canyon Rd
Paso Robles, CA 93446
(805) 238-7571
(Saturday and Sunday 11am-5pm)

We wound up at Minassian Young thanks to a tip off from Jason at Calcareous who thought we’d have fun meeting David Young, one of the youngest winemakers in the region. This is a really comfortable winery to ask any and all questions. The winery and tasting room are situated atop a ridge with magnificent views of the Santa Lucia mountains and the tasting room itself, housed in an old white barn is super cozy – burnt orange painted walls and rugs create an inviting environment. This is the first place we will come back to with a picnic to spend an afternoon…

Vin Fuzion
Sycamore Farms
2485 West Highway 46
Paso Robles, CA 93446
805-238-5288
(unmarked so look for Lone Madrone Vineyards signs and go around back to Vin Fuzion’s petite tasting room)

We stumbled upon this tiny tasting room by accident – they are literally not on the map! Although some may find the crystal and herb enhanced wines a little too hippie, we love them. The “Om” merlot is one of our absolute favorite wines because it is smooth and elegant and a little earthy, and because it has been “balanced” by the placement of amethysts on it’s tank during the fermentation period. Less work than a yoga class! We also loved mingling with the adorable array of animals, including a floppy eared bunny named Thumper.

SHOP

Divine Style & Soles
1325 Park Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
(805) 239-8787

We were surprised by the stylish brands that are sold in this open warehouse like space. If you find yourself stuck in Paso with nothing to wear, this is your best bet.

Roost on Park
1317 Park Street
Paso Robles, CA 93446
(805) 226-0760

A country style home store to find housewarming gifts such as birdcages, candles, soaps and mirrors.

Affinity for Detail
1315 Park Street
Paso Robles, CA
(805) 237-2294

A boutique lingerie shop whose motto is, “Fine lingerie for women who fancy luxury.” A rather New York City style store in a country town.