The last installment of my recent ever so fun and fabulous trip to New Orleans for weekend 1 of Jazz Fest is all about after the sun goes down on this city that never ever sleeps…
Although most of the city enjoys a good boozy lunch or afternoon cocktails, the Varsity cocktailing happens at sunset and beyond. (JV move to skip is getting so wasted during the daylight hours that you don’t make it for evening debauchery! We’ve all done it. Once is enough though. Eat, drink water and pace yourself.).
Where to….
SIP
Carousel Bar at the Hotel Monteleone
Famous for its bar that is actually a carousel that moves (ever so slowly but if you’ve had a few you might think you’ve had too many if you set your drink down on the bar and turn back to find it gone– spun around the room). They’ve recently renovated the bar and it feels fresh and is a hot spot for NOLA natives after work. Try a Sazerac, the New Orleans classic cocktail– brace yourself.
Top: Katy Casbarian, fourth generation owner of Arnaud’s, and Maeve Reston, my cocktailing buddies. Bottom: the namesake French 75 champagne cocktail.
French 75 is the picture perfect old school N’ Awlins bar adjoined to classic Arnaud’s (see Eat below). Wood paneled with white jacket clad waiters, order a French 75, the signature champagne cocktail, which trust me, is maybe just a wee bit too delicious.
Another French Quarter institution, Napoleon House is steeped in history. Order a Pimms Cup, their signature drink.
EAT
Mine and Lucy’s favorite dinner in New Orleans from last year, I returned with high expectations and found Sylvain even more bustling and sinfully delicious than before. Must order items include the fried eggplant app, shaved brussel sprout salad, pappardelle bolognese and of course, the burger. Sylvain is also very reasonably priced, which is much appreciated! And, with nine movies shooting in New Orleans at the moment, Sylvain appeared to be the A list actor hang out, too– bestill my beating heart.
Charming little Lilette is a favorite of the city and with good reason. It is intimate and charming, located on a lovely block of Magazine Street Uptown, and features stand out cuisine. Highlights of our decadent dinner included white truffle parmigiano toast with wild mushrooms, marrow and veal glace, hanger steak with the best french fries ever consumed, and a blueberry financier cake for dessert.
One of the oldest restaurants in the French Quarter, Arnaud’s has been offering Creole cuisine with New Orleans flourish and grace since 1918. Seated in the main dining room (a restored turn of the century oasis), you might very well forget what year it is… This is definitely the place to try some New Orleans classic seafood dishes such as Shrimp Remoulade and Oysters Bienville.
New on the scene, Root is located in a open loft like space in the Warehouse District. The exposed beams and modern seating and lighting offer a hint at the boundary pushing that goes on with the creative menu. The biggest risk Chef Philip Lopez takes is with the scallops served in a cigar box. The presentation is dramatic and unlike anything ever seen, and while the scallops are delicious, our group (who almost all ordered the scallops) were mystified and ultimately somewhat put off by the cigar aroma and taste that emanated from the dish. After much drinking (which is hard to miss indulging in while in town), cigars and your dinner don’t seem to be a happy marriage… That said, we were all deeply impressed by everything else we had, particularly the Louisiana pickled shrimp: shrimp stuffed deviled eggs, truffled egg yolk mousse to start, and the Yorkie: chocolate covered peppermint pattie, mint chocolate chip ice cream, Coco Puffs and minted milk for dessert.
After Dinner Drinks & Music
One of the best venues in the French Quarter, One Eyed Jacks is a small concert hall/bar often featuring famous musical acts. We caught a 2AM Galactic show one night!
The Apple Barrel Bar is a fantastic little dive bar on the famous Frenchmen Street with awesome live music all two times I have been in. As a patron, you are practically on the stage with the musicians and if you’re not into the scene, get your cocktail “to go” and wander down the street to another venue.
bottom: photo credit: John McCusker.
A nicer dive bar located Uptown on Magazine Street, Le Bon Temps has billiards and other bar games in the front room/bar and rocking Jazz in the back room/bar. Had too much fun dancing to the Soul Rebels who are literally mere feet and sometimes inches from you.
Til we meet again, my sweet New Orleans!
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