Divinely Designed Boutique Property, El Otro Lado in Panama
After an hour and 15 minute drive from Panama City through marvelously undeveloped hills, thick jungle and along the Caribbean Sea, we arrived at the tiny historic port town of Portobelo, Panama. Beginning in the 1500s, Portobelo was the most luxurious and important port for the Spanish Empire and was guarded by several forts whose ruins are now UNESCO Heritage Sites. We're greeted by El Otro Lado's manger Jim Peebles and ushered onto a small boat for a four minute ride across the harbor to the hotel property which is only accessible by water. Three black labs come running to the water's edge to welcome us accompanying a member of the staff with fresh local tropical fruit juices.
El Otro Lado is the product of passion and years of hard and meticulous work. Owned by an elegant, sophisticated Spanish woman who zips around on a jet ski and is unfussy and approachable, the property reflects her impeccable taste and respect for the Panamanian people and culture. The four bungalows that dot the shore, as well as the Gazebo which serves as the "entertainment hub" for the property- where drinks and meals are served-- are all a fabulous meshing of local modern art, shocking pink couches, tangerine colored chairs, vibrant tiled floors and lamps fashioned from seashells. It is a melange that works fabulously at this little slice of paradise where the jungle meets the Caribbean Sea.
We learned a new Spanish word during our stay-- "maracuya" which means passion fruit and is one of the most delicious things nature produces. Used in cocktails to fish dishes to dessert, the food at El Otro Lado is very good although I would have loved more seafood -- it's a set menu at every meal- liberating to not even be making the choice of what you think you want, yet staring at the sea, I would have loved to have eaten more of the fresh fruits from it...
Completely unwinding by the pool or on your private porch is what you come to El Otro Lado for. When you get antsy, go on a kayak through lush mangroves, hike up to the fort (we saw three baby monkeys nustled in the crook of a tree!) and take a boat out onto the lake that looks like a stage set for a movie (just don't swim in the lake as there are crocodiles in these waters!!). What you can skip-- the beach trip-- the beach is far from glorious here. A narrow stretch of somewhat dirty sand packed with people, we were completely confused as to why we would leave the pristine and tranquil El Otro Lado for a crowded, overly used beach. Rather than stay for the picnic, we hopped back on the boat and reveled in the peace and quiet and beauty of El Otro Lado... and raised our glasses of delightful Chilean chardonnay to Panama.