MOROCCO- exotic sophistication of Marrakech and an adventure in the Saharan sand dunes
As I wrote last week, I found my new favorite hotel (Kasbah Tamadot) on a recent anniversary trip to Morocco with Napper to celebrate our third (!!) wedding anniversary. I also found a whole lot more.
We began our adventure in Marrakech which is a bustling little city. The "medina" is the ancient walled city where all of the famous souks (markets), winding streets, and generally where you want to be to experience the action.
The Koutoubia, the famous mosque sits right by one of the gates to the walled city and overlooks the Jemna el Fna square which comes alive in the early evenings, jammed with locals and tourists alike watching snake charmers, monkey performances, and medicine men telling stories of secret potions far more potent than viagra. There are also numerous open air food stalls with an array of offerings-- I wasn't brave enough to try this time. It is really hectic and I would recommend going with a guide for the first time as it can be incredibly overwhelming!!
There are several lovely luxury hotels in the medina and nearby -- two of note are La Mamounia and Amanjena. La Mamounia is the illustirious and historical hotel where my parents stayed in the 1970s, Churchill hung out (and has a bar named for him there), moviestars and business tycoons stay.
They just completed a three year many million dollar renovation and it is stunning. Although we didn't stay here, we walked the gorgeous and enormous gardens and had drinks in one of the many bars-- each special and unique. I am dying to return to Marrakech to stay here!! I will also save up to stay at Amanjena located about ten minutes from the hustle bustle of the medina.
Amanjena is a member of the exquisite Aman Resorts and is breathtaking. Entering through dramatic arches that open up to a reflecting pool the size of a lake with all of the villas (no rooms here, just perfectly appointed, spacious villas with fireplaces, private gardens, and plunge pools if you so desire) tastefully set around it. Word has it that "Sex and the City 2" used the glorious hotel as a location and that several of the actresses made the hotel home while filming in Morocco. I would too!!
We skipped the big fancy hotels (next time) to get the more "authentic" Moroccan experience by staying in a riad. Riads are the traditional old mansions of the well to do Moroccans which don't look like much from the street because they all open inwards to gorgeous courtyards that are often beautifully tiled and with a fountain and some sort of tree or flowers-- as in the desert, those are the two signs of wealth-- water and something green! We learned about the culture and Marrakech thanks to our remarkable guide and friend Mohamed Bouskri
who has guided many US Presidents, moviestars, fashion designers and us! 
We were very lucky that we were able to experience Marrakech with Mohamed-- whose family owns the fabulous Riad Kniza we called home for our time in Marrakech. Mohamed's lovely wife is an antiques dealer and the Riad is full of beautiful furniture, pillows, lanterns-- each one a work of art. We were blessed by staying in the Royal Suite which is the most beautiful suite I have ever stayed in. Lying in the ornately carved mahogany bed looking up at the ivory dome intricately carved and lit from behind... what a way to start and end the day! 
Breakfast, which is included in the room rate, on the roof overlooking the medina is sun drenched and delicious-- we became obsessed with what can only be described as a flat Moroccan doughnut! The Riad also has a beautiful pool and a Hammam, the traditional Moroccan spa. Run by Mohamed's son Kamal, the staff is professional, friendly and goes out of their way for you. Dinner is also a major treat at the Riad-- we had the most delicious Moroccan food of the whole trip here. Chicken tagine with olives and persevered lemons and a beef tagine with prunes-- ooh, and we started with the pigeon pastilla which is a little pie with minced pigeon meat in phyllo dough and topped with a sprinkling of cinnamon and sugar-- yum!
We also had the most fabulous driver and guide for the rest of trip thanks to the Riad Kniza. Abdou is professional, hip, a great driver and due to his charming nature, we were able to visit and have mint tea with a nomadic family in the desert, get fair prices on jewelry and generally gain access and understanding we wouldn't have without him.
After several days in Marrakech, Abdou took us out to the desert where we explored the Saharan sand dunes. The dunes and the desert are one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. We did a sunset camel ride and stayed overnight in a "luxury" tent out in the middle of the dunes.
You are served the traditional Moroccan cuisine and entertained by local musicians before lying out in the open and soaking up the absolute quiet and the stars. It was quite an experience and one not to miss-- one night is enough though!
After our desert adventure, we recovered in the Atlas Mountains at Kasbah Tamadot (see the write up from June 23), which is an eight hour drive from the desert. I would recommend breaking up the drive and spending a night in Ouarzazate, the Moroccan Hollywood where many American movies have been filmed. Le Berbere Palace in Ouarzazate is historical and has served as home base for many moviestars on location. Skoura, which is a beautiful valley teeming with date palms and roses, is where the luxury oasis Dar Ahlam is situated. Although very expensive, it sounds decadently authentic and perhaps worth the splurge. Please keep in mind, I didn't have the chance to check out either property and would love intel from anyone who has been!
All in all, what we saw of Morocco was amazing. The people are kind, friendly and outgoing, there is such abundance of natural beauty and art that is executed in every detail, the food and wine (yes, the Moroccan wines are quite delicious! Particularly the whites and roses), basically I can't wait to go back. Shukran (thank you!) to all of the locals that made us feel so welcome!
See you soon! xo
STAY
Riad Kniza
(212) 524 376 942 or (866) 514-5596 (from US)
La Mamounia
(212) 524 388 600
Amanjena
(212) 524 399 000
Xaluca, Bivouas La Belle Etoile (tents in sand dunes)
Merzouga, Morocco
(212) 661 236 905