The last word on MALPAIS/ST. TERESA, COSTA RICA-- where to stay, surf, and eat. Hidden gem hotel and villa, where to get amazing Italian food and wine in the jungle and the best part of the beach (no scary hidden rocks)...
The last word.
STAY
We discovered Milarepa on our last day in Costa Rica. It has a small unassuming sign and as it is only four bungalows, there's not tons of hype. But there should be. Carolyn, the stunning French owner is relaxed yet chic and her property reflects that. The restaurant, where we had lunch, is open air looking out onto the most beautiful pool surrounded by lounge chairs on soft grass-- a prelude to the palm trees framing the ocean and beach beyond. Each of the four bungalows is thoughtfully situated to feel incredibly private (something we struggled with where we stayed) and all with an ocean view. She calls one bungalow a garden view as it is set further back, but this too has a view of the Pacific. The property is furnished with beautiful pieces from Bali which compliments how Milarepa embraces it's surroundings. In the highest of highest seasons (Christmas and New Year's), the most you will pay is $250/including breakfast, which we think is a steal. This is our first choice of where to stay when we return!
As we've shared, we spent New Year's Eve at the swish resort in town, Florblanca. And it is lovely. Well laid out and honed as a luxury resort. The villas here (one and two bedroom) are beautiful, large and open-- they open to the jungle and vegetation but not the ocean.
The Honeymoon House and Surf House both do take advantage of the beachfront with ocean views. With rates starting at $475, you will definitely be paying for more polished surroundings... Still, Florblanca is a nice refuge for all of the adventuring that goes on during a trip to this part of Costa Rica!
We stayed at Pranamar, the new hotel from Susan Money who sold Florblanca several years ago. The property has only been open for four months and may still be working out a few kinks that are to be expected. The staff here is fantastic-- particularly Sebastian, Mario and Marianne in the office and the entire restaurant and bar staff. We also love that the room rate includes one yoga class per day per person! Nancy's classes were terrific. The bungalows (although the least expensive option) on the property and the open air yoga studio are the best features of the property. Sadly, the property layout is very crowded with pathways that don't make sense and we felt very on top of the other guests-- in general the property lacks privacy. In addition, we stayed one night in the Kula House which has fabulous decks and an ocean view but alas the structure is not at all insulated so that any movement (climbing into bed, gentle walking across the floor) on the second floor is heard at ridiculous volume on the first floor. All in all, if the aforementioned properties are full, Pranamar is not a bad option just make sure you request one of the bungalows -- preferably the beachfront one.....
Our last night in Costa Rica, we had to scramble to find accommodation thanks to LACSA, the Costa Rican airline bumping us from our return flight. The amazing staff at Pranamar found us a lovely villa-- Batik Beach Villas for our swan song. The three bedroom villa had a beautiful pool, was stunningly decorated and outfitted and had a path leading to the best part of the beach (note-- the north part of the beach in St. Teresa is the best-- the softest sand and rock free swimming and surfing). Our one drawback was again the lack of privacy-- our villa opened to face the two across the path and there was an abundance (too many!) of staff around at all times. If you do stay here, request one of the two villas closest to the beach that seemed more private and tell Christina, the gorgeous Italian owner to limit the staff visits to once or twice a day....
EAT
The pasta and wine at Tropico Latino were absolutely first rate and incredibly, perfectly authentic Italian-- thanks to the Italian chef. The setting here is open air-- amidst the jungle with the beach beyond.
Our favorite dinner was up the hill at Brisas del Mar-- on a cliff overlooking all of Malpais/St. Teresa. The food was outstanding- particularly the mixed seafood grill and the fried calamari. Their inventive cocktails were delicious-- we loved the Coco Loco, coconut rum with watermelon and the Electric Lemonade, vodka, lemonade and mint. The crowd was also the chicest mix of bohemian surfers and Europeans.
We also loved dinner at Mary's. A festive, busy setting that seems popular with locals and visitors alike. The lobster special was delicious. And we obviously love the name.
