While Jackson Hole, Wyoming is widely known as an alpine heaven for expert skiers seeking notoriously steep terrain, this quoin of a valley accidentally discovered by Lewis and Clarke in 1870 boasts an equally hearty and authentic summertime experience for all levels of wayfare.  Dubbed the “Last of the Old West”, locals and visitors alike take much pride in this raw and – for the most part – unadulterated gem nestled along the western edge of Wyoming.  Which isn’t to say that you won’t find your share of expensive retail, real estate, and freshly groomed golf courses . . .

Formerly hard to get to, Jackson Hole isn’t quite the elusive destination resort of old, thanks to an increased number of connecting flights and a large-scale airport renovation.  And it won’t take but a minute’s drive in the rental car to see why so many before you have made the journey.  The half-hour trip from the airport to town passes the spectacular National Museum of Wildlife Art (www.wildlifeart.org), poised and inviting on the edge of a cliff facing the National Elk Refuge.

The small town of Jackson, WY is anchored by its pastoral and iconic town square, flanked by mammoth elk-antler archways that glitter with lights at night.  Check in to the lovely Wort Hotel (www.worthotel.com) for elegant but comfortable lodging within walking distance of the square.

Cowgirl Suite at the Wort Hotel

For a sinful (but fresh!) breakfast experience, walk over to The Bunnery (www.bunnery.com) for some home-made breads and jams, or perhaps a dish of authentic Chliliquillas.  For lighter morning fare, or breakfast on-the-run, pop in to Shades Café on South King Street a grab a fresh bagel and a steaming cup of coffee.

The Bunnery

With fuel in the system, what better time to embark on a beautiful hike!  Several famous trailheads are within minutes of town.  Dip your toe in a glacier lake at Hidden Falls & Cascade Canyon (Jenny Lake) or hear the whispers of expeditioners past in the Wind Caves at Darby Canyon (www.holehike.com).

Jenny Lake

If you’re feeling extra ambitious, plan a camping weekend just two hours away at Yellowstone National Park.  Or stay a little closer and summit the Grand Teton in just two days.  Be sure to sign up with an expert outfit like Exum Mountain Guides (www.exumguides.com).  It’s a serious climb!

If packing a sandwich isn’t your thing, back in town take a stroll over to Sweetwater Restaurant (www.sweetwaterjackson) for a healthy lunch made with all locally produced agriculture.  Try the stuffed avocado salad and their potent iced-tea!  Two other lunch favorites, though off the beaten path, will leave a savory memory worth revisiting.  Pica’s Mexican Taqueria, a tiny counter inside the Stagecoach Bar in Wilson, serves mouthwatering fish-tacos tinged with lime-cilantro goodness.  Eat them on the sunny porch then pick up a game of barefoot sand volley-ball before you leave!  Even further away, but well worth the trip, is Grumpy’s Goat Shack across the mountain pass, in Victor, Idaho (www.goatshack.com).  Chefs extraordinaires, Mike and Liz serve delectable variations of your favorite comfort foods.  Try the Chicago Dog or the Wisconsin Bratwurst – gourmet twists at ballpark prices!  Why the name goat shack you ask?  At least three or four goats are penned behind the tiny restaurant.  If you’re lucky, Mike might let you pet one, or even invite you to a game of bocce.  Again, if you’re lucky.

Teton Springs golf course

While over in Victor, take a look at one of the valley’s most breathtaking golf resorts, Teton Springs (www.tetonsprings.com).  You’d be hard-pressed to find fresher greens, better facilities, or more qualified golf professionals in any major US city.  Play 9 holes, then pamper yourself at the luxurious resort spa.  They’ll even bring you a cold beer in the hot tub while you wait for your massage therapist to call your name.  Now that’s service!

Teton National Park

Feel like being adventuresome? Head over to Teton National Park and rent a few ATV’s for the day (www.tetonvalleyadventures.com).  There’s no better way to cover more raw wilderness so up-close.  Feel like getting wet?  Catch some category fives while white water rafting down the Snake River (www.davehansenwhitewater.com).  Or enjoy the river for its even more famous wellspring, trout fishing.  There are bevies of qualified local fly-fishing outfits geared for instruction from a two-hour beginner lesson up to a week-long river excursion where meals consist of the literal catch of the day.

Snake River

Interested in a more family-oriented outing?  Take the kids over to enjoy the alpine slides over at Snow King, just West of the town square.  Or drive up to Teton Village (Jackson Hole Ski Resort) to grab some nachos at the Mangy Moose, take a ride on the brand new state-of-the-art Tram, and play a round or two on the Frisbee Golf Course.

Mangy Moose

Back in town, be sure to stop by for an Old Time Photo on East Broadway (www.antiquephotostudio.com).  You think you can resist.  But you can’t.

After a quick shower back at the hotel (no time for a nap!) get ready to be rewarded for your serious leisuring by some serious mountain feasting.  The Blue Lion (www.bluelionrestaurant.com), within walking distance of town square, features delectables such as Santa Fe Duck Cakes and Thai Shrimp Linguine.  Mmmmm.  Or grab the family and head to Rendezvous Bistro (www.rendezvousbistro.net) for a burger or a tasty trout dish.  Try the Chicken Fried Frog Legs!  Up toward Teton Village, order raclette for the table at Stiegler’s Restaurant and Bar.  One of the last truly authentic Austrian dining establishments in the country, their $35 Banana’s Foster is prepared table-side with rare brandy.  And worth every penny.  Skip the entrée if you have to.  If you’re looking for romantic ambiance, dinner in town square at The Snake River Grill (www.snakerivergrill.com) is pricey, but extraordinary.

Snake River Grill

Tired and full?  The evening is just getting started!  Jackson Hole is jumping with night life, you just need to know where to look.  And you can start right where you’re staying.  The Silver Dollar Bar & Grill is attached to the Wort Hotel and offers a host of local, domestic, and imported beers as well as tasty bar fare and great live music.  A bit of a tourist haven – but nonetheless worthy of a visit – just around the corner is the famous Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, where you can literally saddle up to order a whiskey and two-step with a salty cow-poke sporting a handlebar mustache.  Don’t forget to stop at the gift shop on your way out; they actually have adorable ladies underwear.  No joke!

If you want to revel where the locals do, drive over to Sidewinders Tavern on Broadway, or Log Cabin Saloon on Cache, where the beers are cheaper, the folklore richer, and the young townies louder.  Be sure to cab it back to the hotel . . .

And finally, as if you don’t have reason enough to book a ticket to the mountains immediately, Jackson Hole plays host to first-class musicians year-round.  From camping out at the Wyoming Blue Grass Festival every August at Grand Targhee Resort, to catching a local folk set on Friday nights at the Knotty Pine in Victor, the valley takes its live music very seriously.  And so should you.

Enjoy!

Meredith Small in Jackson Hole

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