BALI! Part one of my very own "Eat, Pray, Love" adventure
I have wanted to go to Bali for years. Like millions of women internationally, Elizabeth Gilbert's memoir "Eat, Pray, Love," added fuel to the fire as did the fact that Bali kept popping up in conversations with all sorts of people in my life. Bali was referenced as an island of spirituality, style, surfing, creativity, snorkeling and stunning hotels. What wasn't to love? So for our anniversary this month, Napper and I headed to Bali!
I divided the two week trip up into three parts-- the West coast of Bali which is famous for sandy beaches, surfing and a more swishy scene; Ubud, the creative and cultural center of the island located inland; and the far East coast which is remote and rural and known for getting off the grid and amazing snorkeling.
So you're not reading a novel, I'm going to break up my "memoir" into these three areas!
Canggu, Bali (West coast)
We landed after our 20 hour journey from LA thrilled to be in Bali! One note, before you clear immigration in Bali, you must pay around $15/person as a "temporary visa." Do this before you wait in the long lines for customs- we lucked out and our friendly customs official let Napper run to an ATM while I waited... Once we had cleared customs, we were picked up by a driver from our first hotel, Hotel Tugu in Canggu. Drivers are the way to go in Bali-- they are plentiful and extremely inexpensive. We battled through traffic outside of Seminyak (a bustling and for Bali, cosmopolitan area) on the one lane roads but there was so much to look at -- little stalls selling everything from fruit to electronics, temples everywhere and more scooters whizzing this way and that than I've ever seen in my life.
We arrived at Hotel Tugu in Canggu, which is about 20 minutes north of Seminyak, 45 minutes later. This hotel is stunning! The owner is an antiques collector and it shows. The lobby is the most dramatic lobby I have ever been in with a 20 foot tall wooden carved sculpture, a Hindu deity.
After checking in, we were led to our room-- I chose one of the Rejang Suites as opposed to the pool suites as the Rejang Suites are on the second floor and have gorgeous views of the beach. They also have huge wood floored porches with a daybed, a table and chairs for breakfast or snack and the most romantic hammered silver bathtub which is huge and luxurious.
Hotel Tugu is a lovely property with a gorgeous swimming pool, daybeds and lounge chairs with umbrellas on the beach just in front of the hotel-- and before a great surf break. Napper rented a surfboard for about $5 for two hours just outside the hotel on the beach-- be sure to negotiate. The surfing at Canggu is notoriously good, but it is extremely rocky with lots of reef just below the surface at mid to high tide with a strong current so you need to be really careful. Needless to say, I waited to don my rash guard and do my best Gidget til we were on the sandy shores (in and out of the water!) of Seminyak beach the next day.
We had some romantic quiet dinners at the Hotel-- they will set you up solo by the beach, by the pool or in the incredible main building which has lots of private nooks for dining. The food was delicious-- as it was throughout Bali-- lots of fried rice and noodles with fish baked in banana leaves, spring rolls and spicy, savory sauces. The local beer, Bintang, goes well with the food and although I'm more of a wine girl, I enjoyed a few Bintangs as wine is very expensive in Bali due to the import tax.
We hit Seminyak by both night and day. Ku De Ta is the spot to go in Seminyak for sunset drinks. It's a club/restaurant right on the beach and although it feels a little South Beach (why did we come all the way to Bali for South Beach?), it's still fun. And they have the most delicious passionfruit, peach, orange KDT Mojito made with vodka ever. Ever!
We also came back and spent the day at the beach here the following day as I wanted to do some surfing. You can use the loungers up on the lawn above the beach for no charge-- just order some drinks, and you are saved from hawkers who are plentiful on the sand. There's a freshwater shower as well for rinsing after swimming. I did hit the waves and had lots of fun-- again, just rent a board on the beach and use your negotiating skills!
We wandered next door to the old grand dame of a hotel, The Oberoi for drinks and the property is breathtaking and smells like heaven thanks to the jasmine and Frangipani which grow everywhere here and on Bali.
After drinks, we walked down the beach to dinner at Italian spot, La Lucciola. This is an open two-story building that is bustling with mostly attractive, affluent Australians. The wine and food were very good, but this is a pricey spot for Bali. Do recommend for a fun night!
The next morning before being picked up for our first hotel in Ubud, we wanted to see the famous seaside Hindu temple Tanah Lot.
Our driver suggested going early-- around 8AM to avoid the crowds. We took his advice and it was beautiful. I'm not sure I felt the spirituality of Bali here so much, more like a stunning historical, artistic, architectural wonder. There were already loads of people -- mostly school children from Java with their parents or teachers, and Napper and I had a dose of what Brangelina must feel like-- they all wanted to take pictures with us. Even the parents and teachers! It was a very strange situation...
The memoir continues tomorrow.... xxo