Bali- the adventure continues in the creative hub of UBUD!
We left the surf of the West Coast for the rice paddies and bustling energy of Ubud. For you "Eat Pray Love" fans, Ubud is where Liz is located in the book during the "Love" period. Ubud is busier than I had imagined, but still just several blocks of one lane, one way (but still look both ways as scooters totally ignore the one way signs!) little roads lined with shops and restaurants. We loved Ubud- it was the perfect blend of yoga, quiet walks in the rice paddies, delicious food, shopping, sightseeing and a deeper experience with the Balinese culture. It wasn't until we had spent a day or two in Ubud that we felt like we really got Bali.
We stayed in Ubud twice- on our way to the far East coast for four nights, and on our way back to the airport from the East coast for three nights. Each visit we stayed at a different hotel- both about 10-15 minutes from the heart of downtown Ubud and located along the Agung River in the Sayan Valley. This neighboring village is stunning - amidst rice paddies with the river rushing by below.
Villa Semana was the hotel we stayed at first. While a lovely property comprised of about 10 individual "villas," a restaurant, a central pool and a small spa on the river, for whatever reason, we're not sure this place totally captures the spirit of Bali. It seems geared to more of an older true tourist-- they push hard to get you to sign up for day long tours all over Bali to the most touristy spots. We tuned them out and did our own thing which was incredible and we feel like we had an authentic experience. To be fair, our villa was nice- I chose a river facing one with a plunge pool (which was ice cold and even though is was in the 80s, I only brought myself to plunge once the whole time). The room had marble floors which is technically nice but feels too formal and cold for Bali and there wasn't much of a sitting area... The staff was really friendly and helpful and they run a shuttle to downtown Ubud from the hotel. All in all, this hotel is pretty, but something is missing which I can't quite put my finger on....
We spent our days on our first visit to Ubud exploring the area in a myriad of ways. We took a fantastic yoga class at the legendary Yoga Barn right in the heart of Ubud. The classes are held on the second floor of an open air pavilion overlooking a rice paddy. Amazing.
We wandered the streets popping into tiny little shops on Ji Hanoman and Ji Monkey Forest-- there are beautiful batik clothes and textiles in silk and cotton that are so inexpensive as well as snakeskin purses, sandals and lots of jewelry. Throughout Bali and Ubud in particular, everything seems charged with a deeper meaning (in a good way). Malas, beautiful necklaces that are Buddhist prayer beads, are sold in a lot of shops and a lot of the jewelry indicates a deeper significance-- for example, a bracelet with a lapis stone in it, signifies "healing." It's not hippy-dippy feeling because it all feels very organic to Bali.
The same goes for restaurants, many of the restaurants offer "blood cleansing" juices or "healthy body" teas-- Balinese culture is infused with natural healing and health remedies. I actually got sick twice while there- a cold first and then the infamous Bali Belly on my second to last day. I consulted both a Balinese "Spiritual Healer" as well as a doctor trained in Western medicine-- I'll write another piece just on these two experiences and their contrast in the next week or so as it was fascinating!
Anyway, back to the fun times! One of our favorite days was going to the Monkey Forest Sanctuary in Ubud in the morning and to a traditional purification ceremony with a Balinese Hindu priest in the afternoon-- what a day. The Monkey Forest is incredible-- in the middle of Ubud, more than 300 long-tailed macaques frolic and play amidst stunning temples set in a forest that is all a sacred sanctuary.
The monkeys are very, very hungry and will leap on you if you have food, so be careful not to go when you have food in your bag-- unless you want some up close time with a monkey! They also seem to love water bottles, so keep it in you bag. We witnessed a small child on a school field trip get her lunch stolen (in a tupperware container that that the money skillfully peeled back the top of)!
When we'd had our fill of monkeys, we had one of the best lunches of the whole trip at Clear on Ji Hanoman.
The expat chef has perfectly infused traditional Balinese dishes with the right amount of Western twist- which is also reflected in the setting, modern yet incorporating elements of Bali. Everything is fresh and organic and delicious!
After lunch we were picked up by Putu, our new Balinese friend who our beloved LA yoga teacher Sara Ivanhoe had introduced us to via email. Putu is a yoga teacher in Seminyak with plans to open his own yoga and meditation center-- we will keep you posted!! Putu had organized for Napper and I to meet with a Balinese Hindu priest at his house for a "flower purification ceremony." We didn't know what to expect but knew this was a once in a lifetime experience. We met at the priest's house, a modest home in a nearby town. We sat in the open air living room which was very hot and adjacent to a small courtyard that held a small temple/altar like situation with two pedestals before it full of water and an array of glorious smelling and looking flowers. Putu acted as translator as the youngish (4oish?) priest with long flowing hair dressed all in white, read our palms, studied our names, and relayed pertinent past life information. Following these assessments, we were instructed to change out of our clothes and into sarongs. After the priest's prayers before the altar and blessing the pedestals holding the flowers, we took turns seated before a pedestal while the priest blessed us, we envisioned all of our own desires and then the priest poured the flowery water all over us for about five minutes.
Afterwards, we were walked through ritualistically drinking small bits of coconut water, sandalwood water and ate a small amount of rice that was also stuck to our third eye and our temples. The priest finally tied a bracelet made up of red, black and white string to signify the three most prominent Balinese Hindu deities-- Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu, onto our right wrists. It was an incredible experience and we both felt calmer, more clear headed and connected afterwards.
That night for dinner we went the opposite direction of our afternoon and had dinner at the much hyped Moziac which was the most expensive dinner of our lives. Absurd especially in Bali where you can have a three course dinner with drinks for two for $50 and that's even expensive. Don't be like me and be so curious you wind up spending way too much on a dinner that is good but just not worth the cost! The American chef presents tasting menus with paired wines -- if you are stubborn (like me!) and insist on checking it out than promise you'll order the "regular" wine pairing. Napper and I ordered one "regular" wine pairing and one "premiere" wine pairing and did blind taste tests-- for 5 out of 6, we preferred the "regular!!" And if you must go, insist on sitting outside in the garden. The overly bright open air pavilion feels like a gussied up airport lounge....
Will continue with Ubud tomorrow as I have too much to say and can't keep you all day! xoxo