A Trip to Brazil. Part 2: Paraty, Brazil by guest writer and tastemaker Perrine Meistrell
We rented a car to travel down towards the popular vacation destination of Paraty. The drive out of Rio and down the coast was at first jarring- departing Rio we saw the many favelas in the hills beyond- the immense poverty and lack of adequate housing is so saddening; the living conditions seem unjust. In a slightly melancholy picture, kites of young children playing literally dotted the skyline above each favela; it was difficult to think about kids living in these conditions.
Still, throughout the trip it was clear that Brazilians have a true zest for life that is palpable despite any adversity- in the culture, music, the dancing, the dress (or lack thereof.) Their passion further enlivens the natural beauty, ecological biodiversity, as well as the mix of cultures and ethnicities; there is literally stimulation everywhere. There were rehearsals for the famous Carnival happening while we were there- the enthusiasm and work that goes into preparing for the event is amazing- and loud enough to keep you up at night! On a slightly more mellow note, I think Portuguese is the most romantic, musical language and I loved listening to Gilberto and all the classics throughout the trip. Once past the city limits, we took the scenic, longer route along the lush Costa Verde, (running between Rio and Sao Paulo) driving alongside the exotic, verdant Amazon, and also enjoying breathtaking views of the ocean and nearby islands from the curving hills. (One can also fly, but we found the road trip far more fun for just a little over four hours.)
Excited to arrive, we pulled into Paraty, which is a charming old colonial Portuguese (now Brazilian) town whose waterfront is now a UNESCO world heritage site. It was once an important port for gold and silver, and its old mansions have been preserved ever since. Passing by colorful small boats docked in the harbor, we drove to the cobbled streets of the historic district. From there at the outskirts of the main town, no cars are allowed, which adds to the quaint and cozy feel. There are actually many lovely inns hidden away in the town, such as the one we picked, Pousada do Ouro. Behind its large wooden door lay a sanctuary of peaceful privacy and chic elegance. There was a pristine small pool, surrounded by a beautiful garden, and a fantastic bar in addition to a great old pool table. The rooms were clean and white; simple but stylish.
Once we were settled, we walked through streets lined with casual cafes, interesting shops, and beautiful old churches and forts. Ultimately we ended up having dinner at a romantic candlelit restaurant with soft, live music floating out through the doors to the street outside where we sat; it was a very memorable evening.
Paraty is especially popular because it situated in the Bay of the Ilha Grande, surrounded by many beaches, waterfalls, tropical forests, mountains –essentially there is tons of stunning natural beauty just moments away. Interestingly, I just found out that, for all you "Twilight" fans, Paraty was the site of Bella and Edward’s honeymoon, the so called “Isle Esme.” Further proof of what a special little spot we were staying in.
Having the car, we were able to explore each day, enjoying local, laid back beach bars and cafes (including one where they filmed a scene in the "Tourist") that served the freshest fruit, seafood, and traditional heartier fare. It was a perfect blend- adventure during the day and tranquility at our pousada when it was time to sleep.
One of the best beaches in the area is Almada Beach, slightly to the south. You have to jettison your car and climb over a hill to get there, but once you see the view, the beach will capture your memory with its beauty, and your spirit with the kindness of the locals living there. And as serene and secluded as it was, the beach bar there was also apparently a hot spot: while we were there we spotted a helicopter hovering and were curious why-turned out some neighbors from Angras (another holiday spot) were saying hello to friends on the beach below!
So goes the Brazilian party spirit, making nightlife wild as well. Yes, Brazilians like to party and the special drink of the area is Cachaca, a type of alcohol made from sugarcane.
Cachaca is yummy, especially when mixed with fresh ground coconut (my fave drink of the trip) but fairly lethal. After an evening sipping coconut cachacas, you will find yourself longing for a coconut with a straw the next morning- confirming that coconuts are both the perfect accompaniment to one's poison (see also, Pina Coladas) and the most effective hang over elixir all in one...
Because my friend speaks fluent Portuguese and knows the area well we did not need any assistance but there are plenty of tourism shops in Paraty that will organize excursions for you, and our inn had a concierge with helpful suggestions as well. As in Rio, one has to be careful and circumspect; it’s best not to bring any expensive jewelry or valuables. Luckily, you don't need too much to rock Brazilian holiday style: cute bikinis, colorful pareos, sexy summer dresses, havanianas, a pair of hot heels for Rio, and perhaps some wedges to navigate Paraty’s cobblestones. I spent most of my time in sunnies, swimsuits, and cover ups- the old adage less is more works particularly well in Brazil.
Alas, after almost a week in Paraty it was unfortunately time to leave, again via Rio. I was sad to go, but the trip truly sparked my love for Brazil and all things Brazilian, and I cannot wait to return and explore some more…
-Perrine Meistrell