Car Races in Monterey, CA! A weekend of revving engines, massage and decadent dinners
Loving a good car race is in my genes-- my father was a race car driver back in the day, my cousin Nick Firestone raced in the Indy Lights series when I was in my early 20s and I attended Bill Scott's Driving School with my father. Going to Nick's races was an exciting experience. The adrenaline on the track, hanging out with the drivers (who were all very handsome in their racing suits), their fun wives/girlfriends who were all bombshells that drank lots of wine- it was a blast!
So, when Napper proposed a weekend up in Monterey, CA built around a car race that was in part a "work event" (he works in advertising for Mazda), I was game. Especially after I was assured that I would "definitely" meet Patrick Dempsey (McDreamy, ladies!), who is not only a talented actor, but apparently a race car driver sponsored by Mazda. Sold.
We left mid-day Friday and the 5 and a half hour drive north was unspectacular along interstate 5. We cut over on route 46 thinking we'd stop in Paso Robles, a burgeoning wine region, but pushed on.
As we pulled into the Old Monterey Inn, a quaint Bed & Breakfast that aside from a few too many trinkets and stuffed animals strewn about was cozy and skewed more hotel than B&B, the biggest bummer was driving smack into the marine layer. Just 5 minutes inland we had been in beautiful sunshine, but the entire coast was socked in with fog all weekend. This is apparently the norm in the summer months, so don't come to Monterey or Carmel seeking sun!
To elaborate on the Old Monterey Inn, I was intrigued by it's history and glowing reviews (the more noteworthy ones are from 2002) and while the service was fantastic- everyone working there is friendly and knowledgeable about the area- the Inn is in need of a refresher. It has literally just been acquired by new owners who I am hoping make some changes like replacing the carpets throughout, updating the bathrooms and scale back the bric-a-brac. We were upgraded to the Library (they automatically upgrade you to a nicer room if it's available), which was a small room with a porch and a fireplace.
I would have been upset if I was paying full price for this room (over $300). What I did like was the complimentary wine in the afternoon from 4-6pm- we missed it both days, but upon checking in at 6:30pm, Natalie, who was on duty offered us glasses of the house wine which was quite good. The breakfasts were also decadent and you can have them brought up on trays to enjoy in the privacy of your room-- we made good use of our little porch between wine and breakfast! All the rooms that I had a chance to look into were on the small side- even the suites. One room to definitely avoid is Stoneleigh- it literally is in the parking lot.
The gardens of the Inn are gorgeous and their spa treatment room is lovely with a roaring fire- I enjoyed a 90 minute aroma wrap and massage on Sunday while Napper was out at the track again. That's a nice feature of the Inn, they bring in talented masseuses and you don't have to leave the property.
The Inn also recommended two of the best restaurants I've been to in ages. Friday night we drove about ten minutes to Pacific Grove to Passionfish. Run by a husband and wife team, the focus is on sustainable, fresh California cuisine and Chef Ted Walter really excels in the seafood arena. I agree! The scallops were heaven. They also have an extensive wine list which is all retail prices-- meaning, most restaurants mark up a bottle of wine by more than doubling it's retail price. Not so at Passionfish! Enjoy a $35 bottle of wine for $35, not $90! The place was hopping on Friday night and the area it's in is very cute and charming with lots of Victorians.
That's another thing that was perplexing about Monterey and even Carmel- I imagined bustling, charming seaside towns and was disappointed with the uber-touristy and uninviting downtown areas. I wouldn't make one of these towns your vacation destination- if you happen to be here for an event or driving through, absolutely fine, but otherwise, the California coast has many more appealing options.
Enough about that, after dinner we had a drink by the outdoor firepits at the brand spanking new Intercontinental Hotel on Monterey Bay. Located on the famous (and touristy) Cannery Row, the hotel is very nice, yet maybe a little corporate and lacking personality.
The following day, we hit the Laguna Seca track. We definitely got there too early and wound up spending 8 hours at the track which is waaay too long, even with a hospitality suite to pop in and out of in the Grandstands.
The race was exciting for a bit and then at the end for Napper and the Mazda team as two of their cars placed in the top 3. As for McDreamy, his car had a fan belt problem and finished third to last. Sunset drinks with him and his wife by the track did not happen either.... I will mention my sunset glass of chardonnay in the hospitality suite was very good-- from a local winery called Talbott.
The highlight of the weekend for me was dinner Saturday night. Opened just two weeks, 1833 is the best restaurant I have been to in months.
I give it a 10 for the food, 10 for the decor, 10 for the cocktails and wine and a 10 for the service. If you are in the area, do NOT miss this place! A collection of intimate and cool spaces for dining, drinking and hanging out, the design of 1833 blends sophistication of white marble, with rustic charm of wood plank floors and antlers. Nailhead armchairs, fire pits and beamed ceilings further the feeling. The Sarah's Mule is one of the best cocktails I've ever had- vodka, lime, ginger syrup and seltzer. The Parmesean Crusted Halibut on farro, spring garlic and fava beans light and delicious. And the roasted vegetables would make a veg lover out of anyone! I wish, wish, wish, this restaurant was in Santa Monica instead of Monterey!! They have done everything right.
Driving home the following day we opted to take the 101 south instead of the 5 and it was much, much more pleasant and took the same amount of time. Lots to look at with ample cute towns to stop in for dinner-- no IHOP for dinner last night! We pit stopped in Los Olivos, familiar stomping grounds and had a nice dinner at the Los Olivos Cafe.
Til the next race! xox